Machu Picchu

I met my Machu Picchu group at Hotel Marqueses on April 1st at 5:20am. No, this was not an April fools Joke. I was about to hike 27 miles on The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The trail runs through the Andes Mountains with the highest elevation reaching 13,828 feet. I spent two days acclimating in Cusco at 10,500 feet. My excursion with SAS Travel Peru was booked far in advance. Their package included lodging at Hotel Marqueses but I decided to stay at The Samana Inn & Spa. They were nice enough to hold onto my remaining luggage while I was gone. I had one night booked with them post trek.

We were quite spoiled on this four day trek despite hiking 27 miles with no shower. Our porters carried EVERYTHING except our day packs. That included our tents, sleeping bags, food, cooking supplies, water, etc. The porters are Inca natives that are accustomed to high altitude. They may be small but they are astonishingly strong. Not only did they carry our gear but they also set up our tents, prepared our food, provided us with fresh drinking water, disassembled everything and then would run passed us on the trail with all of the gear attached to their backs. It’s unbelievable.

Our bus ride from Cusco to km 82 took 2.5 hours. Along the way we stopped at a small shop for last minute snacks and a restroom break. Km 82 is the beginning of the Inca Trail as well as the first checkpoint at 8,530 feet. The guides will provide your entry ticket but you must bring your passport to check in. 

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There were a couple inclines where I thought to myself, “how in the hell am I going to do this” but overall it was a moderate first day trek. We hiked almost nine miles within six hours. I knew SAS Travel Peru included three meals for each day but I was not expecting the unique and phenomenal home-made dishes we received. I was imagining sandwiches and snacks NOT ceviche! We had our own personal chef that carefully predetermined our meals, keeping in mind the nutrients we would need for energy and strength. When we arrived at our first lunch stop, the dining tent was already set up and the food was almost ready. I couldn’t believe that the porters past us on the trail and had time to set up. 

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After trekking a few miles into the Andes Mountains, it is clear that civilization is long gone. The train horn you once heard slowly fades, eventually becoming nonexistent. You’ll notice in my photos that the weather changes quite frequently. Within minutes it would alternate between warm and sunny to cold and rainy. This is why it’s crucial to pack multiple layers in your day pack.

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To our surprise we arrived at camp with our tents already set up. We were given time to get settled and freshen up before dinner. Cold showers were available for a small fee. Personally, I’d rather not shower than take a cold one. Baby wipes were my savior for the next few days. We spent the evening eating great food and exchanging stories over hot tea. Not gonna lie, I had a full night of uninterrupted sleep and it was magnificent. I could be biased but I think I ended up with the best tent. Check out my view: 

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No need to set an alarm because the porters came around each morning to give wake up calls. We were given a few minutes to get ready before meeting up for breakfast, coffee and tea. After breakfast we were formally introduced to each porter. These men work so hard to ensure we have a great trip. It is very important that you bring tip money!!! I feel badly because there were a few of us not properly prepared. You will not have the chance to get money at the end of the trek. The porters do not go to Machu Picchu/Aguas Calientes with you so please, pack money! It is given to them on the third night. Most of them have families and use the tip money to provide for them.

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Everyone was eager to get going. We were told today would be the most challenging because we’d be climbing Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwanusqa) reaching 13,828 feet above sea level.

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This trek on The Inca Trail is the most physical and mental challenge I’ve ever accomplished and if asked to do it again I would unhesitatingly say yes. It wasn’t easy but I never once felt like it was too difficult to complete.

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Below is one of my favorite photos because you can see how small we are in comparison to the mountains. Climbing this portion of the trail was very difficult. The air was thin and I had to stop and catch my breath every ten steps but I eventually made it! This is also one of the only clear photos I have from Dead Woman’s Pass because the clouds rolled in right when we summited.

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Reaching Dead Woman’s Pass is such a huge accomplishment. We spent a few minutes at the summit rewarding ourselves before heading to our next campsite. This took longer than planned when it started to rain, making the stone steps very slippery. Again our night consisted of dinner and refreshments before going to bed. I did not sleep as well on night two. It was pretty cold in the mountains but the morning views were worth it! We were sleeping in the clouds 🙂

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Day three is the longest of the four, stretching nearly ten miles in six hours. The trek begins with the continuation of yesterday’s decent. From Runkurakay you’re able to observe “Dead Woman’s Pass.” If you look closely, you can see a woman laying down on the top of the mountain. You can see her forehead, her nose, her chin, her breast and finally her torso that eventually disappears into the mountain. Runkurakay is a semicircle shaped ruin with breathtaking views of the Pacaymayo valley. 

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The SAS Travel Peru brochure has day three labeled “unforgettable” and I cannot agree more. After Runkurakay, you’re given the option to explore the Sayacmarca Ruins or continue hiking to our lunch site. Knowing I may never be here again, I decided to explore what I could.

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My favorite section of the trail is right after the Sayacmarca Ruins. It’s an enchanting hike along stone paths and wooden bridges with lavish green weeping willow trees. The recent rain left a thin layer of mildew on everything in sight. Our group really spread out and I spent a majority of the time hiking alone, enjoying the peace and quiet.

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One of my favorite memories of the Inca Trail is being above the clouds. We were very fortunate to have such nice, clear weather with very little rain.

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Puyupatamarca “The city above the clouds” is an archeological site situated 11,811 feet above sea level. In the distance we could hear a faint train horn meaning civilization was nearby. This was our last break before reaching camp and I’m pleased we made it thus far before dark. The view of the Urubamba River flowing between two mountains was not one to miss.

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One of our members became very ill during the hike. When the rest of us reached camp, we notified the porters that our guide stayed behind with this individual. They quickly grabbed a gurney and ran into the mountains to retrieve our friend. He was such a trooper! He ended up completing the hike with us the next day. Our last dinner in the mountains was a special one. Our chef made us a congratulatory cake. Yes, he baked a cake in the ground in the Andes Mountains!! How does one even go about doing that? I am so impressed by their hospitality. This was our opportunity to tip the porters for all of their hard work. This would not have been possible without them. DO NOT FORGET CASH!

We started hiking at 3:30 am to get in line with several other groups at the Sun Gate checkpoint. Once granted access, we hiked approximately four miles within 2-3 hours and despite it being a short day, the last stretch was tiresome. It seemed like the stone steps leading us to the Sun Gate were never going to end. We finally made it just before 7 am and it was such a relief. The Sun Gate, formally the main entrance into Machu Picchu, is where we catch our first glimpse of the “Lost City of the Incas.” Four days and we finally made it. I smell VICTORY.

Machu Picchu is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The ruins were built in the mid-1400’s and were used for roughly 80 years before everyone fled the royal estate due to the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire. The ruins were abandoned for an estimated 100 years which is why it’s referred to as “The Lost City of The Inca’s.” The estate also occupies a large number of agricultural terraces previously used for crop production. The mountain directly behind the ruins is called Hyuana Picchu which I climbed the following day.

Machu Picchu is such a magical and mysterious place which explains why it has become one of the most popular traveling destinations. A benefit of completing the Inca Trail is having early access before the gates are opened to the general public. If you’re lame (just kidding but seriously) and opt to take the bus to Machu Picchu- know that everyone else that completed the 27 mile hike despises you. I remember being so pissed that people riding the bus were able to see the same magical ruins without completing the 27 mile trek. There I was reeking of sweat with greasy hair that hadn’t been washed in days and they were stepping off of the bus wearing makeup and cute, clean clothes. It takes away from the magic. I know this isn’t fair and not everyone is able to complete such a difficult hike but it would still feel like “a lost city” if the only way to reach it was earned by completing the trek.

We explored for a couple hours before taking a bus down to Aguas Calientes. Tim and I were the only two that booked the classic 5 day, 4 night trip including Huayna Picchu the following day. It was hard saying goodbye to everyone! We accomplished such a huge physical and mental challenge together. Thanks to social media, we’ve all stayed in touch and I hope to see them again in the future.