Cusco

Aside from Mexico, this was my first time out of the country. I was spending 19 days in South America, specifically Peru and Brazil. My first two days were in Cusco so I could acclimate before the Inca Trail Trek to Machu Picchu.

Finding a ride from the airport was simple. There are several taxi’s outside that are eager to gain your business. My room at The Samana Inn & Spa was absolutely stunning! I was on the top floor with a wonderful view of the city and surrounding mountains. The complimentary space heater and coca tea kept me very comfortable throughout the night.

• 

• 

• 

I spent most of the morning catching up on sleep. That afternoon I had lunch at Inka Wasi, an upscale Peruvian restaurant near the main square. Guinea pig (cuy) is a Peruvian delicacy and consumed on special occasions. The plate arrived with a crisp guinea pig cut into four pieces. This really caught me off guard but as my first “exotic” dish in a foreign country, I wanted to keep my composure and not disrespect the culture. The skin was very tough and hard to cut. The waitress saw my struggle and encouraged me to eat the cuy with my hands and gave me a quick demonstration as if she were eating an imaginary chicken wing. I tried my best.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

That night was my only chance to really explore the city of Cusco. I was taking a “Sacred Valley Tour” the next day and the evening would be spent meeting the other hikers in my Inca Trail group. I walked around town checking out the night markets, the Natural History Museum and The Cusco Cathedral. I purchased a sweater made partially of alpaca wool, some gloves, a Cusco beanie and a knock-off North Face fleece jacket. The nights were a lot cooler than I expected and I wanted to be properly prepared for my upcoming evenings in a tent.

• 

• 

• 

I had a complimentary breakfast in the Samana lobby that included made-to-order eggs, an english muffin with jam, assorted fruit, coffee and tea. I was also given a map of Cusco to study while I enjoyed my food. The Samana Inn & Spa was very impressive. I wish I had more time to take advantage of the spa benefits.

I booked the 5 day/4 night Inca Trail package with SAS Travel Peru. Machu Picchu has become a very popular travel destination so I booked this several months in advance but the Sacred Valley Tour was something I booked at the SAS Travel Peru office when I checked in. Their website can be slightly confusing but their prices are reasonable and they use local guides from PERU (this is a big deal.) Our two guides for Machu Picchu, Felipe and Hans, were very intelligent and showed great pride in their sacred lands. While writing this blog post, I learned that Felipe has started his own trekking company, Ccorca Inca Trail. As a Cusco native, he always made me feel safe and indulged us with vast Peruvian knowledge. Please check out his site if you’re considering a trip to Machu Picchu and/or other surrounding treks. He’s what made my trip with SAS Travel Peru so memorable.

The Sacred Valley tour was an all-day trip continuing past dark. Our first official stop was in Pisac to see the Pisac Inca Ruins and agricultural terraces. The terraces are seen all throughout the mountains of the Sacred Valley and still serve their original purpose of maintaining irrigation throughout the land. The terraces work by allowing sunlight and water to cover more ground.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We stopped at a silver shop in the indigenous Village of Pisac. Cusco (well, Peru in general) is known for their silver production. I purchased two pieces for $74. On my way back to the bus I witnessed two baby goats wearing little woven hats. One of them tried to eat my hyoid bone, haha. Such an “Evil little Goat” 😉

We stopped near the Urubamba River for a buffet style lunch. Our group actually split into two and we were taken to two separate restaurants. Our food was very good and there were plenty of options. Our next stop was my favorite of the day: Ollantaytambo.

The small village of Ollantaytambo is overlooked by a facial carving in the Pinkuylluna Mountain known as Vircocha, the creator of everything including the universe and the stars. The Pinkuylluna storehouses, found directly behind Viracocha’s left shoulder, were built by the Inca people for food storage. The mountains were the best location for food longevity because of lower temperatures and more wind.

• 

• 

• 

Our final destination was Chinchero, one of the few rural areas with a higher altitude than Cusco. We stopped in a local weave shop for a demonstration on making colorful textile. Have you ever seen the white growth that appears on cacti? Its called cochineal and they are tiny scale insects used to make red dye to color the wool. Despite having a white exterior, when mushed together they produce a red/deep plum color. One of the ladies even used it as lipstick! There were many natural remedies used for color variation. I really enjoyed watching the women create such elegant pieces which, by the way, are for sale.

For having limited time, this tour gave me the perfect representation of Cusco and its surrounding indigenous villages. From silver production and textile weaving to farm and agricultural work, the local people’s craftsmanship, skill and work ethic were inspirational. “I never want to leave” crossed my mind many times on our way back to Cusco.

• 

• 

Later that evening my Machu Picchu group met at the SAS Travel Peru headquarters where we discussed the trip, expectations, packing essentials and more. Afterwards, I met up with a friend from Austin who was spending several months in Peru. He insisted I try a Pisco Sour, a signature Peruvian cocktail. It was so yummy that one night cap turned into two. Although I couldn’t stay out long, it was nice to see a familiar face.